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ST. PETERSBURG

The story of St. Petersburg cannot be told without first talking a bit about one man Peter I, known as Peter the Great. Standing 
over 7 feet tall, this Tzar was born in 1672 in Moscow. He and his half brother Ivan V became the rulers of the Russian empire in 1682, with the guidance of Ivan V's regent and sister, Sophia. Her scheming landed her in the Novodevichy Monestary in Moscow, and replaced by Peter's mother as regent. With her death in 1694, Peter became Tzar. One of his first actions was to travel through Europe from 1697-1698, the first Russian leader to do so. He spent his time learning about Europe, visiting government institutions and common people, and he even worked as a carpenter in Amsterdam. The father of the Russian navy, his first military gains were at the expense of the Turks and the Crimean Tartars and he captured a port on the Azure sea, now the site of Rostov on the Don. While in Europe, he wasted no time making friends and signing alliances with Poland and Denmark. A war with Sweden soon followed, and in 1721 Peter controlled the Gulf of Norway and the Baltic coast. On a sight of a fort he founded in 1703 (The Peter and Paul Fortress), Peter began to build a new city, based on a purely European design. Using the best architects from Europe, mostly Italian, this city quickly grew. In 1721, he proclaimed Russia an Empire and was accorded the title of Emperor of All Russia, Great Father of the Fatherland and "the Great." At the same time, moved the capitol from Moscow. This was to the City of St. Petersburg, named after Alexandr Nevsky, Peter's patron saint, and the man who first took this area in 1240 from the Swedes. Much work had to be done to turn this swampy delta of the Nevsky river into a suitable foundation for a city, and canals were constructed and earth brought in to allow the city to be built here. Peter wanted this to become his ‘window on Europe', where the backwardness of Russia would be transformed into a leading empire, on par with other European greats. The new home  of Russian nobility, Peter's work was carried out after his death by his daughter, Elizabeth, who became Empress of the Russian empire. By the time of her death, St. Petersburg had become one of the finest cities in Europe. The next emperor, Peter III did not rule very long until he was overthrown by his wife, a German Princess who would become Catherine the Great. Well liked by nobility and peasants alike, Catherine was a popular ruler who did much to advance the arts. Her own art collection was the basis for the Hermitage art gallery, now housed in the Winter palace and one of the finest collections of art in the world. 

The Summer Palace at Petrovorets 

Reforms began in the early 19th century to ease land ownerships and the burden of Russian serfs. When Alexander I died suddenly in Siberia, the first revolution that St. Petersburg was to witness took place. The uprising by the Decemberists in 1825 was to convince the new Tzar, Nicholas I to sign a new constitution. This did not go well, and the revolt was crushed with brutal force.  Organizers were executed, and supporters were exiled to Siberia. By the time Nicholas ended his rule, St. Petersburg had most of it's best known landmarks: The Kazan Cathedral (to celebrate the victory over Napoleon in 1812), St. Isaac's cathedral, and the Winter palace all contributed to making St. Petersburg a great city. 

Kazan Cathedral 

As well, the Arts were alive during this time, with Pushkin and Dostoyevsky writing poetry and books, and Tchaikovsky creating some memorable music. In 1855, Alexander II was crowned emperor, and started some of the most liberal reforms in Russia's history. This was in stark contrast to the rule of his predecessor, who felt that a strong army was all that was needed to keep Russia on the road to greatness. By 1861, serfs were freed, and other reforms such as the introduction of trial by jury. Despite these and other sweeping reforms, including a constitution that was about to be signed, some revolutionaries did not think that this was good enough, and Alexander II was assassinated in 1881. The Church of the Saviour of the Spilled blood was built on the spot of his assassination. 

The Assassination of his father made Alexander III quite hesitant to continue any further reforms. This continued the feeling of social unrest, and in 1905 a peaceful demonstration against Nicholas II ended in bloodshed as the Tzar's troops opened fire in the Palace square. After "bloody Sunday" the Tzar was forced to introduce a new State Legislative body, called The Duma. The celebrations did not last long, as the powers of the Duma were quickly curtailed, and legislation overturned by the Tzar. In 1914 war raged across Europe, and Russia entered on the side of the Allies. At this time, the city's name was changed to Petrograd, the old name sounding ‘too German', and seeing as they were the enemy that would not do. Palaces were turned into hospitals, and construction in the Capital was halted to divert much-needed resources to the war effort. Even this was not enough, and by 1916 food was scarce in the capitol. Social unrest climaxed in February 1917, when Nicholas was forced to abdicate his throne.  A provisional government was set-up, but this proved ineffective, and in November the Bolshevek party, led by Vladimir Ilich Lenin stormed the Winter Palace after a signal shot by the cruiser ‘Aurora.' The provisional government was arrested and the Civil war started between the Red's and the White's. With the Germans closing in from the West, the capital was moved back to Moscow. By the time Lenin died in 1924, the communists were in control, and the name of Petrograd was changed to Leningrad.  The city was to grow steadily in the period between the wars, but then a defining moment happened. When the Germans broke the peace pact signed between Hitler and Stalin and invaded Russia in 1941, it took them only two months to reach Leningrad, and by September 8, 1941 a siege of the city began which was to last 300 days, until January 27, 1944. Almost 3 million civilians (including about 400 thousand children) remained in the city, but would not give up, despite the fact there was only about a 2 month food supply left. By the winter of 1941-42 there was no heating, no water supply, almost no electricity and very little food. In January 1942, there was an unusually cold winter. At that time food rations were reduced to about 125 grams of bread per day. And this bread was made mostly out of sawdust and other inedible objects. In just two months, January and February, 1942, 200 000 people died in Leningrad of cold and starvation. An ice bridge was available across Lake Lagoda during the winter months, and despite relentless attacks by aircraft and artillery, civilians were shipped out, and food and arms were brought in. By the time the siege had ended some 800 000 people had died. For this, Leningrad became a ‘Hero City of the CCCP.' 

It took the better part of thirty years and much sacrifice by the people of Leningrad to rebuild it to its pre-war splendor, but now St. Petersburg, as it is once again know as, looks almost like it did before the war.  

Those studying at the St. Petersburg State University of Finance and Economics will be staying in an historic building in the very centre of the city. Previously the home of the Central bank of Russia during Tzarist times, this university is one of the finest economic institutions in the world today. Many of those now found at the centre of power in the Russian government studied here. From the dorms, a quick two minute walk will lead you to the great columns of the Kazan Cathedral. Closed during communist times, services are once again being held in this magnificent church. Crossing Nevsky Prospect, the main street in St. Petersburg will lead you to the doors of the church built in honour of Alexander  III, Church of our Saviour on the Spilled Blood. Having only just re-opened after renovations, this church is similar to St. Basil's on Red Square in Moscow. The inside walls are covered in mosaic, making it a very spectacular sight to see. Just around the corner, the Russian Museum holds some of the greatest works of art by Russian artists, it's collection second only to Moscow's Tretyakov Gallery.  Walking out once again to Nevsky, take a right and work your way down past a fine collection of cafes, stores and bars. You will cross several of the canals that work their way through St. Petersburg. If you are feeling 'literary', turn right and walk along the Moyka river until you reach the last home of Alexander Pushkin, one of Russia's greatest poets. It was in this house that he died two days after loosing a duel over his wife to a French cavalry officer. If not, keep going until you reach Ulitsa Bolshoy Morskaya, and turn right. There will be an arch that you pass  under, and in front of you will lay the Winter Palace, now the State Hermitage Gallery. In the middle of Palace Square is the huge Alexander Column, erected after the defeat of Napoleon in 1812. Behind you is the former General chief of Staff building of the Tzar's army. Around the other side of the palace, on the banks of the River Neva is the entrance to the Hermitage. Before you go in, take a look across the river at the Admiralty buildings, and the Peter and Paul Fortress. A quick ride on the Metro will take you to the fortress, built by Peter I, and now the final resting spot for many of the later Tzars, including Peter I, Catherine the Great and the Romanovs who were laid to rest there only a few years ago. Getting into the Hermitage is a real bargain: it's free with your student card. You may want to bring your camera, as you can but a photo pass for under 3$US. You will need lots of time to take in the whole collection. The building itself is spectacular enough, so you will probably want to come back here a few times. Leaving the Hermitage from the same way you came in, take a left and walk along the river until you reach Decemberists square, and the statue of the Bronze Horseman. It was dedicated to Peter the Great from Catherine the Great, and depicts Peter on a wild, charging horse. In behind the statue is St. Isaacs cathedral, completed in 1858, and again, only just completed the major renovations that were required after the war. You can take a tour up the tower and get a spectacular view of the city.  There is still a lot more of St. Petersburg that you can explore for yourself. A quick trip out of town on a double-decker bus takes you to the fountains of the Summer Palace at Petrodvorets, and just south of the city lays Pushkin and Pavlovsk, the home of the Palace of Catherine the Great. In St. Petersburg itself is an amazing collection of art galleries, museums and concert halls. 

You can be sure, that even one semester will provide you with a lot to take in in St. Petersburg! 

 

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